The Unlikely Utilitarian Staple the Fall 2026 Collections Have Me Coveting
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Camille FreestoneWed, April 1, 2026 at 8:53 PM UTC
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How Raingear Went High FashionLAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
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At Tom Ford’s Spring 2026 fashion show, models slunk around the stark white runway, catching eyes with audience members soundtracked by a mix of tv static and piano riffs. It was fitting: the clothes were slick, louche even, in designer Haider Ackermann’s perfect execution. The tailoring was sharp, the croc leather was shiny, and the toes were pointed. About midway through the procession, a model slithered out in a clear plastic trench coat piped in black. The next model wore a cropped version of the jacket in that same material. The following, a similarly see-through skirt. Then came a few clear hoods and bonnets. The whole show had a searingly hot, Patrick Bateman sort of precision, and these voyeuristic interpretations of rain jackets took the bit even further.
Tom Ford Fall 2026Courtesy of Tom Ford - LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
The day prior, Anthony Vaccarello also explored precision at Saint Laurent. After a slew of 2026-style interpretations of the brand’s Le Smoking jacket and a handful of slinky lace dresses worn by models with severe makeup and gelled-back hair, he showed a brown trench coat made from a rubber material that looked like liquid. It, too, had a hair of translucency once you got past the glare of the show lights reflecting off of it. Vaccarello styled this kinky coat with transparent tights and pointed-toe stilettos.
The fantasy du jour for fall, it seems, is a tryst in the pouring rain—a hot, glamorous moment in the elements that calls for something both practical and provocative. But take away the slickness and the stilettos for a moment and consider the humble rain jacket et all: can the banal utility staple in your closet actually feel thrilling? The range of styles and interpretations on the runways, hot and not, this past season seems to indicate that the answer is yes. In short: these are not your grandma’s Macs.
Saint Laurent Fall 2026Umberto Fratini - LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
At Calvin Klein, Veronica Leoni showed two garments cut like car coats in transparent leather to mimic a raincoat, one in deep red, the other a taupe-y brown. At Loewe, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez distorted the archetypal silhouettes of waterproof outerwear with extra padding to exaggerate proportions. At Tod’s, Matteo Tamburini fashioned rain ponchos out of leather. While at Lii, Zane Li warped sporty anoraks and paired them with full skirts. Lacoste’s Pelagia Kolotouros went straight to the source; the brand collaborated directly with Mackintosh on a series of techy waterproof garments emblazoned with the Lacoste logo.
Calvin Klein Fall 2026Courtesy of Calvin Klein - LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
And, of course, you can’t have a discussion about fashionable rainwear without mentioning Burberry, the brand that turned the military-grade waterproof trench coat into a desirable fashion item in the early 1900s. They’ve even gotten creative with their contemporary silhouettes. For fall, their classic trenches saw the addition of ruffled collars and shiny black Nova-check-printed materials.
Thanks to this current vibe shift towards capital F rain gear, smaller, fashion-favorite brands like TWP, Staud, and Kule have each released their own iterations of stylish anoraks, while function-first brands like K-Way, the midcentury Paris label known for its nylon rain jackets, have entered the fashion conversation, as well.
Burberry Fall 2026launchmetrics.com/spotlight - LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
The new iterations of these waterproof styles are alluring, but it’s the styling that cements what makes this conversation so interesting. A few seasons ago, for Spring 2025, Prada sent a rain-jacket-clad model down the runway styled in a manner that sent photos of the look blasting across social media. The model in question wore a silver sequined and embellished sheath, plum-colored satin pumps, a bright yellow anorak, and a straw visor. The formula of mixing the utilitarian with the formal is certainly a Prada-ism, and it was displayed at its finest in this ensemble.
Prada Spring 2025launchmetrics.com/spotlight - LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
A piece of rain gear is the perfect vehicle for contrast. A rain jacket can be perceived as sporty, gorp-y, tech-y, utilitarian, dowdy, or even perverse in its most tarp-like state. In the cases of Tom Ford and Saint Laurent, the designers played into the fetishistic feeling of the plastic-y materials. At Loewe and Lii, the sporty element clashed with elegance—emphasis on the word clash. There’s just so much oddity to play with—and designers are having fun.
KULE The Klee
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Plan C
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